Tuesday, August 24, 2010

Awkward Turtle

So, pretty sure I should win for most outstanding farang fuck up day. I don't even know where to start. Woke up feeling good, 20 times better than the day before (Monday, which are FOR THE BIRDS) since it was Tuesday and I already had my school outfit picked out - a new black skirt I bought and some shoes that I repaired that I also bought and broke the next day. That shoe got through two classes. Awesome. Luckily I wear (surprisingly) the same size shoe as my teacher friend, Da, so I wore her shoes at lunch. Lunch is the real disaster - when I had to go to the bank to finally get my bank account. So I jump on my red headed stepchild of a scooter (which is another story about the awkwardness of my existence on such a catastrophe of a machine) and nearly fall off because my skirt had little give and I couldn't spread my legs far enough to guide myself around the other mopeds. Now, everyone and their mother knew that I was off to the bank to get my account. A solo American Farang Mission. Banks close super early here so my lunch period (when no one else had time to join me) was the only time I could find to go. One of the thai admins at my school called ahead to let them know that I would be coming. They sent me off telling me I was a brave sole to do this - I mean, I couldn't imagine how hard it could be... I had my passport, work permit, and enough thai to say yes/no/etc.
I roll up on a smoking heap and waltz into the bank like I own the place. Even though I took the less sweaty way by not walking, I still had to wipe off my sweat stache - very attractive. Don't even take a number for the queue... but then when I ask for help someone gets me one and just hands it to me. Talk about a slap in the face. My number gets called and I try to explain to the very handsome and nice (but femmy) thai man that my paperwork should be done and saved for me and that I just needed to bring my work permit to get my account. Fast forward 20 minutes, 4 calls to my school, and enough awkward silences to make even michael cera squirm, and I'm still sitting there trying to explain myself. That's when I find out he had everything he needed for the account and I just needed to sign some papers (fucking paperwork in thailand, i tell ya!). Phew. Done and done. THEN I realize I don't have the 500 baht necessary to open the account, aduofauodfh;lwahefuihasljgafhewiofjpawjf!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I try to tell him I will come back and bring it in an hour, epic fail. So I call my agent, Pook, and tell her I NEED her to transfer my salary immediately because I am at the back, epic fail. Fast forward another 20 minutes, 4 MORE phone calls, and several angry thai people waiting, and one VERY angry thai bank assistant and I FINALLY have my "bahtage" in my account. I say my goodbyes, try to apologize to everyone, grab my backpack and walk out, feeling pretty freaking cocky for getting this shit done - solo mission (ish). Of course, my hard plastic bottle filled with iced coffee from school falls out of the side of my bag and lands with a shattering crash all over the piercingly white bank floor. Chocolate brown liquid dripping from my skirt, filling up DA'S shoes, and making a mad dash to every part of the bank. The music stopped at the bank, and all eyes were on me - the farang fuck up. My new best friend and bank assistant just gave me a look of shock and in broken english said, "it ok. go now" So I did, leaving a caffeine footprint and a whole lot of my confidence in being the only white girlie in this damn town.





Field Trip! Kindergarten 2 went to the large dragon descendants' museum in Suphan Buri. I have been before with the boy I tutor and his mother, where I got an English guided headset for the tour inside the dragon (again, super attractive especially paired with the blue plastic booties we wore). Four teachers were in my group of 40 students. Piece of cake. Except the floor moves like a ship in parts of the tour, there are dragons that hiss while you walk by, and it is basically pitch black throughout the entire thing. Not so fun for 4-5 year olds. Picture these 40 kids either crying and clinging to one of us, plugging their ears because the guide's microphone was turned up to MAX and was essentially bursting all of our ear drums, or screaming their friends' name to try to find them amongst the group of midgets to stand next to and hold hands. Dragon in thai is 'Munggorn' which was said a substantial amount of times during the tour. However, it is also a popular nickname for thai children. Imagine being 'Munggorn' in the 'Munggorn' - talk about either feeling like a celebrity or a nut job for having a nickname like 'dragon'... it kind of makes me think about an american child having a nickname like 'fairy' or 'darkwing duck' or 'ninja turtle'.... 3 of them wouldn't leave my side throughout the day - not that I cared because the kids are so damn cute - but it's like your first date with a guy in the theatre, you are just a teenager, and you hold hands, gets freakin sweaty you are so nervous (well, maybe that was just me, and maybe it was because said movie was CAST AWAY aka nearly 4 hours of silence on a beach). It's so interesting to watch small children interact, no matter the culture/language/etc. It reminded me of when I was young and would try to play the 'mother' kidlet to the smaller ones. At one point I looked to my left (while I had one child clinging to my neck and one sitting on my lap) and saw the smallest and quietest girl, Mew, in the arms of one of the bigger boys, Mek. So cute. Kids really do look out for each other. Maybe it is because they see each other as the same. It doesn't matter if you are a boy, girl, ladyboy, fat, thin, smart, slow, or whatever; everyone deserves a friend. These feelings seem to morph as we grow, so seeing them in their most innocent form is quite eye-opening to the manipulations the outside world has on our relationships.

In other news, we had another 4 day weekend. I'm all for the thai teaching lifestlye, I mean "teaching" 27 hours each week, which is often dumbed down to about 20, is about the equivalent to finding a hundred dollar bill on the sidewalk, winning olympic gold, or any other occurrence that makes you feel that way :) considering my salary and cost of living here. I decided this time I wouldn't do something as outrageous as going to Chiang Mai so I went with the very Laura-like 'don't plan a thing and just roll with the wind' option. My vice principal, Nee, wanted to take me shopping and to a movie in Bangkok for some time, so we made plans to do that on Friday. Oh, Thursday was Mother's Day here, so Wednesday my school had a big ceremony and I also go that day off. (Happy Mothers Day, Madre G!) I went to Kanchanaburi Wednesday - I've been there 3 times now and absolutely love it. So peaceful, full of nature, and loads of chill people ready to take your baht to send you on a boat, to a nearby waterfall, to the bridge over the river kwai, or to the tiger temple or some other exotic animal getaway. I did a Safari on Wednesday with 5 non english speaking europeans - it wasn't awesome but it was pretty cool to feed and hang out with giraffes and zebras. It's amusing how many times I was told by the thai tour guides about the deer and how I could feed them. I just laughed to myself, I mean I'm from Wisconsin, I think I know what a deer looks like. My father has a giant head hanging on the wall that you must duck under to get to the downstairs at my parent's farm house - my friend Margie looooooves it :-P Hung out in Kanchanaburi for the next day and a half and then headed to Bangkok with Nee and the principal's daughter, Sam. It really is exhausting hanging out with thai people all day, that's really all I have to say about that trip.

The feeling of missing out on things back home, and just plain old missing my relationships, schedule, and surroundings of my life before Thailand has presented itself a few times since I've been here. In between the crazy nights with farangs drinking "gatorade" outside clubs and the days filled with thai children and thai families that, although we cannot communicate the best, have taught me so much about life and myself, there is the reminder of what great things I have in my life back home (and some not so great things that are part of my reason for travelling) and everything that has gotten me to this point in my life. There have been a lot of battles in the past few years, and looking back I realize how much my friends and family has helped me through the ups and downs. Let's be honest, my life is more of a rollarcoaster than anything, even if it is sometimes more equivalent to the Giant Drop - at least in my head. You know those really down times where you can't see the light and although you remind yourself things will get better, you really don't believe what you or anyone else is telling you? A slump - maybe. I kept saying I was in a rut back home. Did I think I'd be living in Thailand and wanting to stay past my contract 5 years ago? Not sure. I am thankful that I've had this opprotunity and thankful that I can make the decision on my own to stay longer. Your perspective (during the good and the bad times) changes, and you find yourself considering something that would never have occurred to you, and, I have to say, it can be very pleasant. Life-changing? No, but I wouldn't necessarily want to go back. A little insight from Mr. Gordon Ramsay. The ultimate error is to disregard earlier actions because in there is guidance that you have paid for, sometimes at an eye-watering price.


Pictures to follow... Don't have my camera right now.

Thursday, August 5, 2010

my thai style, insults, and condiments



Little things make my day. Prime example: this morning I spoke for a solid 45 seconds with my mother. Unfortunately, although a highlight of my day, not the point of this story. I explained to her that I was going to school 'early' because my internet at my apartment wasn't working and I was going to use it at school, to which she replied how her internet ALSO wasn't working... in a tone suggesting that perhaps by some coincidence BOTH of our Internets (although on opposite parts of the world) were being constricted by means of a similar catastrophe. Yeah, pretty intense conversation for 45 seconds.


The following excerpt of my life is a tad feminine, so maybe skip this part if you aren't down with the masses (err.. i mean menses).

Before traveling to Thailand, I obviously needed to get my personal pharmacy in order. Not only did I need my mala
ria pills (of which I forgot I had and have never taken), thypoid shots, and Hep A and B shots, I also needed all my prescriptions filled for 7 months. Holy balls. That took some finagling with both my doctors and pharmacists at Walgreens :P Talking it over with my parents was a piece of cake. Until my mother brought up my birth control, to which I replied I had stopped taking and was going to not fill a prescription and bring it to Thailand. A) I was saving money as I had already shelled out over a grand to complete my first aid kid and to organize previously mentioned personal pharmacy. 2) I wasn't taking any at the time, plus I figured I wasn't going to Thailand to make babies. My father happened to be in the room at the time, and literally muted the television to gawk at me in astonishment. "Laura, it's not about what you PLAN to do. What about the 'heat of the moment'" Haha. Sorry, Dad. You are too funny to not tell that part of the story. Fair enough... I know there are several reasons to go on the pill and what not but I tried to give my own reasons at the time. I recently read a lot about the history of birthcontrol and about several studies from the introduction of this 'natural' means of menstruation for females. One such study proved that it is not, in fact, normal for women to menstruate every 28 days (or once a month). Over a course of several years, research was done on a large group of females that had never used any form of contraception. Remarkably, these woman hand only around 100 lifetime menses, about 7 per year from puberty to age 20...over the next decade and a half, women spent most of their time either pregnant or breast-feeding (which eliminates menstruation)... from age 35-menopause these woman averaged around 4 menses a year. We, on the other hand, because of this shift towards a monthly cycle rock it about 400 times in our lives. So, our bodies are basically being subjected to changes and stresses that they were not necessarily designed by evolution to handle. Oh, and one of the founders of birth control was a devout Christian (that is a whooooole 'nother story).


You mean to tell me I don't HAVE to have ALL those symptoms after all. WTF?! Incessant ovulation serves no purpose except to increase the occurrence of abdominal pain, mood shifts, migraines, endometriosis, fibroids, and anemia - the last of which is "one of the most serious health problems in the world." Is that a good enough reason, Padre?



So, back that ass up two weeks:
We had a 4 day weekend recently for the Buddhest Lent Day and I took a bus up to Chiang Mai with a few friends. Despite having JUST gotten my wisdom tooth pulled and going to a place in my head where it would NEVER heal (ha, Katy), I had an AMAZING time. The best. Not only because I fell in love with a thai fire throwing, mask wearing thai man. At least I don't think so. A quick synopsis of that weekend, noting the highlights, are organized below in an simple and readable bulleted format. You're welcome.
  • Sketchball of a bus ride coordinator on Khao San road in Bangkok lead us astray for about 2 hours past our "departure time"
  • 11+ hour bus ride there and back (the ride back being the most painful... insert annoying asswipe of a british man talking for 6 straight hours, NO air conditioning, and a throbbing hole in your mouth where your wisdom tooth once was)
  • Day long excursion with the girls:
  • Extreme nauseousness sitting on the back of a pick up truck up a mountain for 45 minutes
  • Visiting native thai tribes, including the "long necks" that I have been so interested in seeing since I was obsessed with them at the age of 11 watching my national geographic VHS's
  • Acquiring the nickname "White Chicken" while aboard a white water raft. Of course I was sent to the front as one of the 'strongest' links in our group of 4 girls. Our 'captain' was deemed the "black cat" by me after being given such a strange nickname; apparently, because I have white skin and had goosebumps on my arms?? Either way, we had a GREAT team, which included two random Brazilian girls that we met.
  • Bamboo rafting. Awesome. Especially with the "black cat" captain that kept tipping us over.
  • Wearing bob the builder helmets and intense orange life jackets on the river while white water rafting. Taking said helmets and life jackets off ON the SAME river to bamboo raft. Doesn't quite add up.
  • Lunch at the elephant camp, where I was "recognized" because they thought I had been there before. HOW many times does this have to happen to me.... apparently I do NOT have a very unique face.
  • Woody. Woody. Yes, that was the name of our thai tour guide for the day. He slapped me in the arm at the end of the day. Clearly he has very legit thai manners.
  • Reggae bars; smuggled alcohol to save money
  • Mexican dinner. Seriously best meal ever (even though I could barely eat any). The portions were American-sized!
  • Unfortunately lost my Blackberry :(
  • Without said phone and my new found love for mr. thai fire thrower on Sunday evening, I was no where to be found or reached. Thus... Bridget called the Thai Police to check to see if they knew where I was??? Yeah... I'm sure that doesn't sound supa sketchy at alllll.
  • HUGE walking markets where I got lost several times, often making those I was with angry at my "deer in the headlights" looks I gave when I finally wandered back to them explaining how I got stuck in a group listening to a thai band, or tried to buy some shoes without finding my size, or just plain forgot what I was doing.
Am I at clown school? The last week's events might make most learn towards the positive.....

Fancy Day. A Kindergarten drag queen meets Richard Simmons meets "Reduce, Reuse, Recycle" on crack. Pictures can really only describe the trash massacre that hit Supaluck School. Hundreds of kindergarten students, a solid 20+ thai teachers, and one farang (me) all dressed in our finest of hand made garbage outfits. Little girls (and boys) decked out in makeup that would make Dede from the Drew Carey show jealous. Honestly, I felt like a celebrity with about 10-12 video cameras pointed in my direction. Every time I turned there were more people taking pictures of me, as I was the first and only "non-thai" addition to this not-so-fancy day.


Balloon Market Day. Not sure the beginnings of this, but I walked out of my afterschool class and saw several students running around the play garden with balloon swords. I followed them until I found a table of about 5 thai teachers pumping away selling their knife like creations for 1 baht. I threw my bag on the ground and put my "i'm the only farang in this damn place so of course I should help" face. Essentially, I ended up with nothing but bloody (not in an english way) hands. I realized I had just spent 1 hour pumping balloons (the little kind clowns make poodles out of) with a mini hand pump. I was basically putting a tiny condom on a magnum plus sized dildo and pumping away like lindsay lohan on meth. Turns out, I'm a fantastic mini balloon pumper - my sheer determination to succeed. I have three band-aids on my hands to prove it and all we made the damn kids were some genitalia looking swords. I couldn't even shampoo my hair (not that I normally do) because the soap burned my cuts. Talk about a class clown.

I finished my first round of after school classes. 7-8 kindergartners every Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday for about an hour after normal classes end. I got paid... bonus (cha ching). I got my second crew as well... gonna be hell. 12-13 students that enjoy touching each other and rolling around on the dusty floor of the classroom more than anything.

Last but not least, I'd like to embark on my current fashion [dilemma] in Thailand. What some might call odd, I find fitting and nece
ssary to add to my wardrobe. I found a wonderful red shirt at a second hand store that I've worn a few times here. A friend of mine (NOT thai) asked me if I was 'serious' by wearing it one Saturday in Bangkok. Of course I was. That same day, and thai friend of a friend said to me... "your shirt... in Thailand... mother or grandmother wear." Ha. I love the shirt and I don't really care too much what people say, it'll probably be on the cover of Vanity Fair soon. I made a few skirts here as well out of material I bought. One of which I wore to school last week. The thai teachers loved the thai print, but told me that 'usually' that print was worn by grandmothers. How nice of them. They called me ugly when I came to school in flip flops from Old Navy the other day. Called me beautiful when I showed up in an obnoxiously large purple flowing skirt. Without a doubt, I am a fashion leader. Follow me.... unless of course you are looking for compliments.

Oh, random side-note. I was just thinking about my LOVE for condiments (and parallel hatred for mayonnaise). My reasoning for such hatred lies within a childhood snack that my mother used to make. Apples+mayonnaise. 2 ingredients. Sick. I can sometimes be found eating up to 4 apples in one day (obsession - maybe found in the next ed
ition of disorders) and now HATE mayonnaise. Khap Khun Kha... mf's