Monday, November 29, 2010

Mama always said... Stupid is as stupid does

This kid knows no fear


THE Angkor Wat

Floating School in the... Floating Village!

Coca-Cola.  Truly the best Brand Marketing.

Liz spent $15 on pencils for the kids.

Week Three: Cambodia with Liz, Lori, and Grace (3 of the 5 girls I went to Koh Chang and Koh Samet with).  This trip involved getting a visa to cross the border as well as a re-entry permit back to Thailand because without one I would no longer have a legit work permit or Thai visa, ultimately costing me a lot more money that I would like.  Our experience in Cambodia was one for the books.  Cambodian men rivaling one another for our attention, luring us in with their many "connections" all around the city in terms of transportation, accommodation, and party time.  After two days of being herded around like cattle and trying to be nice about the situation we packed up our shit from the hostel-in-the-middle-of-nowhere to move to a place closer to the town of Siem Reap where more backpackers stay (which was not walking distance from our current situation).  Of course, upon requesting to pay up and move on, we were told they would drive us, free of charge, of course! to a friend-of-a-friends hostel closer to town.  Fuck that.  Our intention was to get out of this cambodian spiderweb and just do things on our own, or at least with people that would make us "feel" like we were making our own decisions.  We found a quaint, and perfect, little guesthouse called "Fresh" - if you ask my friend Grace, she can tell you a great story about how tuk tuk drivers LOOOVE to say the word "fresh".  :)   So yeah, Cambodia, upon arrival, was both frustrating, expensive, but at the same time fabulously real and rustic.

We spent our first full day getting our tickets for Angkor Wat and doing a super sized tour of a good portion of the grounds that day.  3-day tickets are around 40 USD (I think) which is about 174,000 riel (felt like I was giving up my life's earnings).  Absolutely breathtaking.  I knew I was excited to embark on this part of Southeast Asia, but I was not ready for what I actually saw.  More than just the amazing architecture of many hundreds of years ago, the atmosphere of the entire place was like none I have ever experienced.  Small babies and children of all ages and sizes are roaming around speaking fluent English offering you "a cold drink, lady?" or "15 bracelets for 1 dollar, lady... see, I count for you - 1, 2, 3..." or "You buy shirt, lady?  Remember my shop number 7.  I remember you.  Ok, lady?"  It is a bit overwhelming and at one point, at the end of the first day, I almost lost it.  I was just trying to eat some noodle soup and about 4 girls sat down and would not stop touching us, drawing us pictures on random pieces of paper, and begging incessantly for money (funny story later about how I did offer money to a small boy and was yelled at).  I just shut my mouth and let the other girls talk to the cambodian children.  I got up and walked away, sick to my stomach that these little kids have to do this.  It is a vicious cycle that is NOT their fault, thus I had/have no reason to be upset with them.  They do it because they are told to; they do not know any better.  I've heard from many people that have traveled to India mention that giving any money to those that beg for it and try to live off of that lifestyle is only making said vicious cycle worse.  I'm not sure what we are supposed to do as Westerners in these situations - as if giving a bit of money to a few children will change their lives forever?  I often wonder what they would do with 100 USD if I were to give one family that...  For now, I'll never know.

Shopping in Cambodia was fun!  I realized I'm a pretty damn good haggler.  Thanks Dad, for making me so stern and stubborn (or as you might like to call... bullheaded).  Or maybe I should thank all the Guenther genes??  Anyway, bought about 5 shirts to give to my parents and siblings (it was going to be a surprise but assuming you miiiiight read this, sorry).  They are great quality and all together were about 10 USD for 5.  Of course, they asked for 4 USD per shirt at first.  I didn't buy too much else, aside from some souvenirs from Phnom Penh and a buffalo horn ring with marble on top (unfortunately, this pricey commodity broke a few days ago - sorry Erica, that one was specifically for you.. you wouldn't believe how big I could get rings there!!! They'd even fit you! haha).  The rest of my money went to touring, food, drinks, and drinks.  There was a plethora of happy hours to choose from everyday and most were 10-8 so after a long day of sightseeing and getting back around 5... a 50 cent draft beer (or 3) and a 1 dollar taco (or 3) were exactly what we needed.  Fairly decent night scene, met a lot of other travelers, and found a bar and DJ (named Rat) to play all of the hip hop and rap songs we could possibly come up with.  Words can't exactly describe the dynamic the girls I traveled with have - they're hilarious.  Reminded me a LOT of my time in college, especially Sophomore year living on Mifflin.  Always being classy ladies.

Another day we went to the floating village - super cool.  A rip off in terms of paying every part of the journey from the taxi to the pier, the entrance to the village, the boat to get to the village, tipping the driver and tour guide, and i'm almost sure some of my money ended up with the men who helped me step into the boat, even though they tripped me with a rope!  It was just the four of us in the boat, so we got to stop and go wherever we wanted.  We wanted to stop at the school and give the school children pencils (15 dollars for 60 pencils... wtf?!).  It was literally a floating school (I guess everything in a floating village is floating, eh?)  The kids were soooo cute.  Pictures can explain better than my words: 

We were in Siem Reap for about 6 or 7 days and I wanted to move on to Phnom Penh but the other 3 wanted to stick around another night, so I grabbed an afternoon bus which was to take around 6 hours (actually took 8).  I met a Cambodian girl, maybe around my age, and she spoke very good english.  A sidenote on this... Most people that I mention speak very good english will actually tell you that they don't think they do.. and they are ALL quite shy to use it - I make an effort to tell everyone I talk with that they do, in fact, have great english and the best way to gain confidence and get better is by practicing!  Anyway, Reasey Mean is her name and we talked for the second half of the bus ride (I think I was sleeping for the first, or maybe just wasn't very friendly looking?) and she told me about her family and I told her how I lived in Thailand.  She went to school for Accounting and she does that in Phnom Penh now, where she can make more money than in Siem Reap.  However, her father wants her to move to Siem Reap where two of her brothers live (she is the youngest of 4) and work there.  So she was in Siem Reap for an interview.  She reallllly wants to stay in Phnom Penh but because of the culture, and as the youngest, and as a female, she would have to do what her father wishes, without question.  I spoke with her a week ago and she ended up moving to Siem Reap.  She feels bad not doing Accounting which is her trade, but it is what her family wishes of her.  Hmm..what if I were in the same situation?  Maybe I wouldn't be here - not saying that my parents wouldn't allow me, but I can completely understand them wanting to keep there children close to home, and make sure they have a job, whatever it is, with a reliable income. 
Our trendy tour guide.


I only spent one night in Phnom Penh (2 Days) but got to see everything I wanted.  For those of you that don't know about the genocide in Cambodia as a result of the Khmer Rouge that happened over 35 years ago, I suggest you brush up on your history.  A holocaust that was, in terms of casualties per capita, even more savage and horrendous than the Holocaust itself.  I read "Survival in the Killing Fields" and "First They Killed My Father".  Both autobiographical stories of survivors of this awful moment in human history - sad, real, emotional, intense.  I went to the actual Killing Fields and walked around where many mass killings took place, saw the remains of human bones and clothing that were dug up, some headless, but most with huge wounds on their skulls from being blasted to death with an ax, pick, or other rusty metal or wooden stick.  I also visited the Grand Palace and the famous SR-21 Prison in Phnom Penh that was, before the Khmer Rouge takeover, a high school.  Thousands of pictures haunt the interiors or these classrooms - all that experienced the horror of this time.  Very interesting to see this history of a country like this... but also interesting to experience it through talking with people who actually lived through it and seeing the countryside completely under developed and still stricken by poverty and hunger due to the actions of the Pol Pot regime 30+ years ago.  I get a night bus to Bangkok, taking me first back to Siem Reap, then to the border for inspection/etc and then a mini van to BKK - longest. trip. ever.  I then got a mini van back to Suphanburi to my apartment.  Felt like ages since I had been there... was excited for a nice night's sleep.  Oh wait... I randomly decided to take a 7 am bus down to Phuket the next morning instead of resting for a day or two... imagine that.

Week Four: This is where the legend (wait for it) dary Monkey BITE comes in.  Had a blast island hopping, binge drinking, and meeting some of the newbies going through their TESOL training like I did back in April.  Like always, after picking through some of the weeds we found some beautiful vegetation to hang with (excuse that oh-so-lame metaphor).  Went back to Phi Phi Island which was just as fabulous as the first time - tons of young people partying on the beach until the wee hours of the morning, body paint, fire throwing, fire jump roping, buckets of liquor, and PLENTY of water/boat time during the day.  We did one intense excursion to the surrounding islands - let's just say it was our vacation time so some might have consumed a few alcoholic beverages beginning at about 8 am when our van left to take us to the ferry.  These two ingredients made for a memorable menu to say the least.  We even got to the island and beach where the film The Beach with Leo DiCaprio was filmed and also did some amazing snorkling.  Oh, and I learned how to say spit it thai.. but that is another story... This would be where I could tell the entire story of my monkey bite but because I am still somewhat concerned with my current rabies situation I'm going to leave it out and just mention that I chose not to go to the hospital against the wishes of some friends and ONE pharmacist.  I also want to throw it out there that I WAS told by a (I thinks he was a doctor) lady working in a clinic that I would be fine.  She put iodine and a band-aid on it and sent me on my way. 

After Phi Phi was Krabi (Railay Beach).  I haven't been to this island yet so I was pretty stoked to get my feet on it - I've heard WONDERFUL things.  However, the day we left wasn't exactly calm.  Long story short, I shed a tear or two to my friend Will professing I was SURE we were going to die in the treacherous waters and I knew I wasn't able to swim to any of the islands that seemed miles (or kilometers) away.  I told him that I was currently finding the song on my iPod that I would be dying to.  Ha, apparently I'm not as fearless as I think.  We get there after many hurdles, including another MUCH SMALLER boat to Ton Sai beach where we were to find our bungalow to stay in.  I, unfortunately, had a huge bag and had to trek what seemed like forever with it, but it was worth it once we got settled in.  The beach was absolutely what I needed.  VERY chill and very comfortable with beautiful hikes and cliffs.  It is actually famous for the rock climbing that you can participate in - either beginner or advanced.  We met one guy that just got back from base jumping in (I think) Laos and came down just to base jump the highest cliff on the island.  Rumor has it he succeeded :)  I was a little wounded (I forgot to mention I stepped on glass and also had a huge lash on my back from falling into the ladder on our boat) so I opted out of the rock climbing business and just relaxed with two friends that we randomly ran into (they were actually supposed to still be in India, but MAN was I happy to see them!!)

2 nights on Ton Sai beach and we were heading back to Phuket for the Vegetarian Festival.  Pictures can only describe that situation:









Hit up Patong, which was just as toxic as I thought and I wasn't nearly as intoxicated as I needed to be to tolerate all the hookers, neon lights, etc.  Headed to a few more islands near Phuket the next day and I took a night bus back to Bangkok.  Spent a few more days in Kanchanaburi to rest up before going back to work on the 18th of October.  My body was yelling at me for the previous month of debauchery, but my mind was ready to get back to a normal schedule.

Today is Thanksgiving (i.e. I'm going to end this one here and I'll fill ya in on my last month and half of teaching at a later date)... I'm thankful for my friends and family of course, all the opportunities I've been able to have, and my youth.  I'm going to drink beer tonight (again - i drank a bit last night at dinner with a coworker) and I slept the best I have in a while and it got rid of the headache i'd had all day.

But then again.. i get in a better mood come Thursday evening.. i wonder if it has anything to do with the week coming to an end?


Tuesday, November 2, 2010

Supanburi Round 2

Teacher Laura:  How do you spell... ugly? 
Kindergarten Student: U-G-L-Y 
Of course I had to laugh.  And continue the rest of the cheer in my head (you ain't got no aliby... you ugly... you ugly... yeah, yeah, you ugly)  So mature.


Oh man, where to start.  So it has definitely been quite some time since my last posting, mainly because I’ve been off of school for a month (yeahhhh, baby – I just happened to look over and see Austin Powers The Spy Who Shagged Me DVD on the floor so I thought I’d throw that one in for you).  I’ll attempt a semi interesting synopsis starting from the beginning:

School: Ended rather quickly.  Couldn’t have been happier to get out of there.  It wasn’t that I was unhappy or anything but I was SO looking forward to my break and traveling and NOT having to teach everyday that the last week seemed to pass by like a peeping Tom at night.  It was nice because I was extremely busy grading all of the midterms and filling out 100 kindergarten report cards (i.e. writing my name, signing my name, and giving 200 thai parents my thai telephone number… probably should have thought that one through a little bit before I agreed to it). 

Week One: Immediately after class on Friday I jump on a bus to Kanchanaburi – literally jump - as it is driving by the opposite way as I’m in a tuk tuk (mini taxi) to the bus station.  I have the driver whip a U-y and wave that damn bus down because I was NOT about to wait another hour for the next bus.  Worked like a charm.  I seem to keep coming back here… I wonder why?!  It was my friend James’ birthday and there was quite a crew of us that all met here.  You can fill in the blanks, as we have all celebrated many a birthday.  High notes of this weekend were meeting the entire Austrailian Army crew that is training in Thailand and Southeast Asia.  What a silly bunch of Aussies.  Not to mention beautiful and all about the size of Vin Diesel in Fast and the Furious (speaking of… are they REALLY making a 5th?!).  I stayed in Kanchanaburi until Tuesday and [because I had run into some other girls that took the same ATI course as me but a week earlier] headed off with 5 ladies to Koh Samet and Koh Chang, two islands south of Bangkok.  It was so refreshing to be with a different group of people... especially ones that were RIGHT on my wave length in terms of sarcastic remarks, upbeat adventure style, and the occasional legit crazy (and awkward) party mode.  Of course, any time you travel you will experience some extremely awkward moments, those that just make you want to bury yourself in the sand and pretend your existence never was.  For example, after a delicious meal (of American proportions) at our guesthouse we were all rewarding ourselves after a long day of travel with a few beers.  Rumor about a party on a different beach was going around and the thai man sitting next to us who was friends with some of the people that worked at the restaurant offered to drive us in his pickup.  Not sketchy at all, especially not with 6 girls – quite the force to be reckoned with (and no, I’m not being sarcastic here, straight serious).  Obviously I felt right at home jumping in the back of the pickup with a dress on, but that's just the farm girl in me.  Anyway… we get to the bar... It’s ok.  We throw back a few buckets and want to call it a night but how do you tell a thai man to drive 6 girls back home in his pickup?  Fast forward a bit, one of the wolfpack got pretty drunk so that was a great excuse to get our bandwagon back in the direction it came from and get to bed.  We get back, say our goodbyes, head to hang out for a few minutes and listen to some music, and a certain member of the wolfpack may or may not have had to fight off the “moves” of said thai driver.  Sitting on our porch listening to music and eating the snacks we bought on our 7Eleven run, guess who strolls up with a bottle of whiskey in hand?  Harldy awkward until we get yelled at by other guests because our music is too loud and then when we BLATANTLY express our desire to sleep, he decides to find a nice place to lay inside our bungalow on the floor.  At the foot of the bed.  I mean, c’mon.  So yeah… he made his sneaky departure sometime in the wee morning hours because upon awakening he was nowhere to be found.  We did manage to keep that bottle of whiskey though.  Success.

Week Two:  Headed back to Bangkok for a night and then to Suphanburi.  I had a "retreat" with my school in Hua Hin, a beach-ish town in Eastern Thailand (I went here for a Jazz Festival if you recall).  Basically, it was 80 thai teachers and myself checking out a school that the king claims should be replicated throughout the country.  This means, all classes are filmed and shown for years on what is the equivalent of our "community access" channels.  We observed a few classes and apparently they must not get many foreign visitors because it was like brittney spears fighting off the paparazzi after shaving her head when I walked in those classrooms.  I think they were even a little shocked when I burst out laughing.  Speaking of being a celebrity... a few days ago at the bus station (again, going to Kanchanaburi) there were a group of Coke sponsors taking pictures for an advertisement.  They stroll up as I'm lazily sitting on a bench listening to my iPod and, without a word, hand me a bottle of Coca-Cola and a straw and begin taking pictures.  Having been in a commercial or two myself (haha) I immediately pop that straw in the bottle, turn it so the logo is in perfect view of the camera lens and work my magic.  I'll probably be on a bilboard somewhere in Thailand.  No big deal.  Duh duh buh buh juh juh.  Back to Hua Hin... the rest of the 2 days there were great, got to spend some real "quality" time with my coworkers, which involved being forced to drink whiskey & water and racing on the beach for money (my apologies to the thai teacher that I gave a piggy back ride to during one race in which I fell flat on my face, tossing her about 5 feet in front of me).  Oh, and thai people LOVE Karaoke.  Especially sober, on a bus, at 3 pm.  Next up: return to Suphanburi for my next adventure: CAMBODIA


I'm gonna break here and post this.  I'll pick up at Cambodia asap.  For now, I apologize for such lack of colorful writing and nonexistant pictures.  A few tragedies have occurred in my life recently:
1. loss of a functioning camera
2. loss of a functioning iPod (travelling SUCKS without one)
3. I moved apartments, which took me nearly a month to complete
4. I got lice from what I can only assume to be one of my students (needless to say I was too stubborn to investigate WHY my head was so itchy in fear of being grossed out so I may have let it go on a bit longer than necessary - it was a fucking party on my head for a while there)
5. I got bit by a monkey (more on that, and my new found obsession with rabies, in the next blog)
6. Got food poisoning.  As my first encounter with this misfortunate illness I assumed it was my rabies taking over my immune system on what was sure to be my last day of life.
7. Speaking of last days of life... I realized I'm NOT a huge fan of boats during wind storms when land is not easy to come by.  What would YOUR last song be to listen to alive?

rockin you like a tsunami